August 2023
This month we explore one of wine’s most revered grape families: Pinot!
The history of Pinots begins with Pinot Noir, the thin-skinned red grape every wine drinker is at least somewhat familiar with. Pinot Noir likely originated in the Black or Caspian Sea area but it wasn’t until finding a home in Burgundy, France in the 1st century AD that it began its ascent. By the 14th century it had gained a reputation throughout Europe for extremely high quality wines, with the first written documentation coming in 1345. From Burgundy it spread into Germany and eventually the new world, laying roots in California, Oregon, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and South America.
Fun Fact: ‘pinot’ comes from the French word for pine, likely because clusters of Pinot Noir grapes closely resemble a pine cone, tightly clustered and oblong. This tight clustering is one of the reasons Pinot Noir is a difficult grape to cultivate, as it makes the grapes more susceptible to fungi and rot.
Where do Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Pinotage come in? Well, Pinot Blanc and Gris (and Meunier) are actually just mutations of Pinot Noir. Pinot is a grape that has been around for thousands of years, and over that time has undergone an unknown number of natural mutations. Pinot Gris is a color mutation of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc is a further mutation of Pinot Gris. Genetically though, all of the Pinot grapes are essentially identical. Pinotage is our outlier this month. Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known as Hermitage, thus Pinotage) created in South Africa. South African viticulturist Abraham Izak Perold was trying to create a grape that had the aromatic qualities of Pinot Noir with the hardiness and vigor of Cinsault. It’s safe to say it was a success, as it’s now the signature wine of South Africa.
Fun Fact: the movie Sideways (2004) resulted in California growers tearing up vast tracts of Merlot to replant with Pinot Noir. Thanks, Paul Giomatti!
Our wines this month will start with a beautiful Burgundy, establishing the grape in its most well-known form, then move through a wildly fun Pinot Gris from Slovenia, a classic Pinot Blanc from Oregon, and finish with an easy-going Pinotage from South Africa. We hope you enjoy them and stay tuned for next month: wines of Southern France!
Maison l’Envoyé
Bourgogne Rouge 2020
Producer Profile
Maison l’Envoyé is a small, unique project focusing on the Pinot Noir grape in its ancient home of Burgundy and one of its most-famed new world locations, the Willamette Valley of Oregon. In both locations they source grapes from small-holding farmers working biodynamic, single-vineyard sites.
Tasting Notes
Smooth cherry and raspberry, well-integrated baking spices, and lush aromas of rose petals. Low tannin, juicy acidity, and a nice long finish with a touch of leather.
Pairing Suggestions
A creamy, tangy chicken dish would work perfectly with the acidity and fresh red fruit in this wine. Something on the lighter side is probably best, but you couldn’t go wrong with a less-fatty rack of ribs.
| The region: Burgundy, France |
The style: Red, Organic |
The grapes: Pinot Noir |
Matic
Skin Contact Pinot Gris 2022
Producer Profile
A producer that we’ve featured before, here’s a quick list of Matic’s superlatives: fully organic and biodynamic in the vineyard, additive-free in the winemaking process, unique and thought-provoking in his wine styles, and a certified carbon neutral vineyard/winery! One of Slovenia’s finest, this is his take on Pinot Gris. Technically an orange wine, the grapes see 18 days of skin contact, but I’m calling it more of a rosato based on the look and profile.
Tasting Notes
The nose features red apples, a touch of grapefruit, and a slight hint of wild honey. The palate comes alive with notes of lemon pith, red apple skins, and an almost tomato-paste flavor that is really intriguing. The finish is lush and long with a lingering note of orange peel.
Pairing Suggestions
Bruschetta or fresh roma-style pizzas. The note of tomato paste is what I’m hanging on when pairing this. If you wanted to get really wacky, gazpacho. Really though, this is a wine that wants to keep you refreshed on a hot day - it’s going to be great with anything in that situation!
| The region: Stajerska, Slovenia |
The style: Rosato, Organic, Natural |
The grapes: Pinot Gris |
Willful
Pinot Blanc 2021
Producer Profile
Owner and winemaker Pam Walden is the driving force behind this urban winery in Portland. Originally an estate winery with vineyards also tended by Pam, she moved operations into Portland and sold the vineyards after her husband, Aron, tragically passed away in 2013 and she found herself a solo parent and business owner. Now she makes gorgeous expressions of Oregon’s Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. This Pinot Blanc is one of her smaller production wines, clocking in at only 150 cases.
Tasting Notes
Ripe honeydew melon and lemon curd up front give way to bright acidity and grassy notes. A somewhat creamy texture is an interesting base for the tart green apple and lush aromatics.
Pairing Suggestions
Things from the sea! Shellfish would be excellent if you can get your hands on some oysters or mussels. Soft cheeses.
| The region: Willamette Valley, Oregon |
The style: White |
The grapes: Pinot Blanc |
Lievland
Pinotage 2020
Producer Profile
Lievland is a fairly classic South African winery. A long history of grape-growing in the gorgeous Stellenbosch viticultural area, Lievland was rehabilitated as a winery in 2017 by Jjose Conde and Tyrrel Myburgh, who brought the old, dormant vines back to life and are making approachable wines that showcase what South Africa has to offer. This Pinotage is a bold and heady table wine that lovers of Syrah, Malbec, and Rhonish wines will be sure to appreciate.
Tasting Notes
Rich oak and leather notes on the nose give way to ripe plum and brambly raspberry. Tannin and acid are in good balance for how bold the wine is. Secondary aromas of leather come back in the finish and linger pleasantly.
Pairing Suggestions
Gamey meats such as venison or lamb would work well here. Hard, stinky cheeses would be absolutely phenomenal to munch on while sipping this wine. If you’re saving any wine from this month for later enjoyment, it should be this one. Cellar it until the dead of winter and then pop her open next to a roaring fire.
| The region: Stellenbosch, South Africa |
The style: Red, Organic |
The grapes: Pinotage |