Finger Lakes, New York: Ravines Wine Cellar
This month’s wine club is an exploration of the current state of winemaking in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York through the lens of one of the area's standout producers: Ravines Wine Cellars. But before we get to Ravines’ story, let’s sketch a brief history of the Finger Lakes.
Vine-growing in the Finger Lakes goes back to the middle of the 19th century, when it had already become a popular vacation destination for the bustling Northeast corner of the United States due to the eponymous glacial lakes that spread out like fingers away from nearby Lake Ontario. These extremely deep lakes provide not only fun lake activities but, more importantly, a high amount of climate moderation, keeping the area directly around them warmer in the winter than the surrounding countryside, which is exposed to very bitter winter weather. This regulation, along with the gently sloped hills around the lakes (optimal for grape-growing) are what attracted Dr. Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian viticulturalist, to experiment with European Vinifera varietals. Prior to this, only hybrid grapes had been planted here, producing overly sweet and simple wines. Dr. Frank proved the viability of a range of European varietals, highlighted by Reisling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but also including a wide range of Eastern and Northern European grapes that he had experience with in his native Ukraine. His story is a fascinating mirror to that of California’s pioneering wine mind of the 20th century, Andre Tchelistcheff, who helped lead dozens of the most well-known Napa and Sonoma producers to prominence. Both men served in the White Army during the Bolshevik Revolution and subsequently fled the USSR, bringing a deep knowledge of European winemaking with them (they were also close friends most of their lives in the states).
Once Dr. Frank jumpstarted the wine scene in upstate New York, many wineries striving to make high quality dry wines started popping up, most focusing on Riesling, which is the most cold resistant of the classic European varietals. Over the next decades the banks of Lakes Seneca, Keuka and Canandaigua became peppered with vineyards of vinifera grapes. These three (along with Cayuga) are responsible for the majority of temperature regulation. Over the years many styles of wine have been experimented with here, but the last few decades have seen a promising trend toward minimalist winemaking (less intervention) which has helped to develop a unique style that speaks to the terroir of the area. Deep deposits of shale and limestone define much of the vineyard area, notably they’re the difference between Ravines’ primary vineyards: White Springs (limestone) and 16 Falls (shale). Which conveniently brings us to the story of Ravines…
Ravines Wine Cellars is the work of Morten Hallgren, a native of France who grew up among the vineyards of Provence and worked his way through a number of wineries in France and elsewhere before landing in upstate New York. Before Ravines’ first vintage in 2002 he served as head winemaker at Dr. Konstantine Frank Winery, an opportunity that gave him exposure to the pioneering vineyards of the region and the deep knowledge of Dr. Frank’s winemaking tradition. Morten’s 2002 vintage featured wines from the same 16 Falls Vineyard that features heavily in our club this month… including the 2019 16 Falls Vineyard Riesling, a vintage Morten described to me as ‘the last ‘classic’ Finger Lakes vintage that we’ve had’ - optimal, cool growing conditions through the season and very low disease pressure led to pristine Riesling at harvest.
Ravines now works a handful of vineyards in the region, giving them the ability to work a variety of terroirs to create unique single vineyard wines as well as balance in their ‘estate’ wines that blend together grapes from the different sites. The emphasis in the winery is always minimal intervention and barrel aging in large multiuse foudre (2000 liter casks) that allow the wines to open up during aging without imparting oak notes on the wine. The exception being the Chardonnay, which sees 25% new French Oak, creating a balanced and classic style more reminiscent of Burgundy than Napa. The other two wines, an estate Riesling and estate Cabernet Franc, are both pure expressions of what Finger Lakes has to offer: fresh, smooth, vibrant and balanced wines that are approachable for any lover of fine wine.
We hope you enjoy these as much as we did!
Ravines Wine ‘Estate’ Dry Riesling - 2021
The Grapes
100% Riesling - White Springs Vineyard & 16 Falls Vineyard
Tasting Notes
Bright pear, orange blossom and wet stone up front. Crisp green apple and honey comb on the palate… mostly dominated by the mouthwatering acidity of the green apple.
Pairing Suggestions
Take it south of the border with some charred spicy shrimp fajitas served with salsa verde (credit to wine club member Monika for the inspiration on this one)!
Can it Age?
Up to five years
Ravines Wine 16 Falls Vineyard Dry Riesling - 2019
The Grapes
100% Riesling from 16 Falls Vineyard
Tasting Notes
More white flower notes than the estate riesling with the apple being much more golden/bruised apple than green. The mineral notes here are much more defined and slate-y, likely due to this vineyard being completely shalestone.
Pairing Suggestions
Raw shellfish (easy to find here, I know) would be divine. Otherwise riesling is always a hit with southeast Asian cuisine, especially Thai.
Can it Age?
Absolutely! This wine should be able to age for decades if stored properly.
Ravines Wine ‘Estate’ Chardonnay - 2021
The Grapes
100% Chardonnay - White Springs Vineyard & 16 Falls Vineyard
Tasting Notes
A bounty of tropical fruit, honey suckle and pineapple on the nose. On the palate? Now it’s grilled pineapple with dried, syrupy fruit. Subtle notes of baking spice from the oak aging, pear sauce. Yum.
Pairing Suggestions
Get some cod or whitefish fillets, throw them in a small cast iron, slather them with melted butter, black pepper and garlic, roast in the oven at 400 for 15 minutes, serve with fresh basil and lemon, drink this wine.
Can it Age?
Yes, up to three years
Ravines Wine ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc - 2022
The Grapes
100% Cabernet Franc - White Springs Vineyard & 16 Falls Vineyard
Tasting Notes
Bursting with cranberry, cherry and lovely green peppercorn. The fruit opens up more on the palate and is joined with some nice menthol-y notes that make this an incredibly smooth sipper.
Pairing Suggestions
A great burger wine, something with peppers and onions and bursting with flavor.
Can it Age?
Up to five years, but it’s certainly drinking great now
