An Examination of France’s Bastard Grape
“Very Great and Horrible Harshness”
These were the words of Philip the Bold of Burgundy in 1395 describing the Gamay grape and his reasoning for banning it from Burgundy in favor of Pinot Noir. Why the ban? The growers of Burgundy were diluting their sought-after Pinot Noir with Gamay because of its naturally high yields. Yields that were a helpful crutch during an era when Europe was in a slow descent to the ‘Little Ice Age’ which drastically shaped the continent up almost until Napoleon. Colder growing seasons made Pinot Noir more difficult to cultivate, leading to cheating out more wine with that harsh little grape, Gamay.
Philip didn’t want Burgundy’s reputation monkeyed with though, so all the Gamay was torn out and local authorities policed vineyards to ensure it didn’t come back. Thankfully, just south of Beaune and north of Rhone, the small region of Beaujolais continued growing Gamay, and to great effect. Beaujolais, with its acidic soils, optimal growing season, and much more rustic attitude towards what made a wine great, embraced Gamay and has been the preeminent producer of red wines made from the grape for centuries. And over time it has become a well-respected grape in its own right. Perhaps not on the level of Pinot Noir (at least as far as price goes) but certainly a grape making wines well worth seeking out.
“A wine with perfume… now that is difficult to find”
So said Jules Chauvet (the godfather of natural wine) to Kermit Lynch (the man responsible for championing it in America) in 1986, referring to the beautiful wines coming out of Beaujolais at the time. At this point Beaujolais had gone from making rustic pre-war era wines, to Bordeaux-copycat wines in the postwar era of mass commodification, to an emerging hub of a new philosophy in wine.
The natural wine movement in France sought to strip wine back to its basics: no pesticides, herbicides, additives of any type. The inflection point for this movement was Beaujolais and its favorite grape, Gamay. Chauvet and the younger generation that he heavily influenced took Gamay and turned it into something wonderfully evocative, fresh, and new. Wine you could drink a bottle of and not feel horrible. Not only were there no chemicals, but there was less alcohol. These fruity, aromatic, ‘glou glou’ reds quickly became a sensation in Paris, and soon after hopped the pond to New York and San Francisco (specifically Berkeley, where Kermit Lynch is based). Since then Beaujolais has become one of the most sought-after wines of a certain set of wine drinkers and shows no sign of slowing down, even as prices for Cru and Grand Cru level wines skyrocket and the style is copied across a myriad of other regions and grapes.
This month, (ga)May, we’re thrilled to bring you Gamay-Four-Ways. We’ll experience this single grape in a variety of styles, from a variety of places, while hopefully avoiding any instances of ‘very great and horrible harshness’.
**the pairing suggestions this month are all the same - ‘to be enjoyed with friends and family in any occasion that calls for a refreshing glass of wine’
Thibault Ducroux
En Roue Libre 2021
Producer Profile
This is the classic, natural Beaujolais red. Thibault was inspired to become a winemaker by the writings of Charles Jouget (from above) and follows in the footsteps of the giants of natural winemaking who inhabit the same craggy hills and valleys he does.
Tasting Notes
Light and bright strawberry, cherry, and raspberry. A hint of earth and leather up front fade and give way to punchy acidity. Excellent balance of fruit and aromatics with crushed flowers lingering on the finish.
| The region: Beaujolais, France |
The style: Red, Natural, Organic |
The grapes: Gamay |
Coeur de la Reine
Gamay Touraine 2021
Producer Profile
Now an example of Gamay from its only other notable home in France: Touraine, in the Loire Valley. This wine comes from winemakers Rodolphe and Lidivine Marteau, who sustainably farm vineyards that have been in their respective families for generations. Touraine, with its less acidic soils and much cooler growing season, offers a much different profile than Ducroux’s Beaujolais.
Tasting Notes
Distinct bell pepper and herbaceousness up front on both the nose and palate. Riper, fuller cherry flavors and a slightly heavier body. Long finish highlighted by violets and lingering dark cherry.
| The region: Loire, France |
The style: Red, Organic |
The grapes: Gamay |
Folk Machine
Gamay Noir Rosé 2022
Producer Profile
Folk Machine is an offshoot of Hobo Wine Company, which has been making clean, delicious low-intervention wines for about 20 years. They thoughtfully approach each facet of winemaking, from sustainable corks to recycled glass to constant work keeping their vineyards up-to-date with organic certification. Most importantly, they host community ping-pong tournaments to raise money for local charities. Thankfully, their wines also deliver - if you’re interested in trying more, we have a wonderful Zinfandel on the shelves that’s a light, bright contrast to the sturdy, 15% alcohol zins usually seen from California.
Tasting Notes
Incredibly refreshing fresh-picked strawberries with a top-note of bubblegum and watermelon. Very easy drinking and an excellent thirst-quencher. Acidity for days and a long, mineral finish round out this made-for-summer wine.
| The region: Arroyo Seco, California |
The style: Rosé, Organic, Biodynamic |
The grapes: Gamay |
Jean-Paul Brun
FRV100 2019
Producer Profile
We come full circle back to Beaujolais, but with a wine nothing like the previous three. This semi-dry sparkling Gamay is an absolute treat in those times when you need a kiss of sugar in your glass. Made similarly to pet-nats (the ancient method) fermentation finishes in bottle. All organic and sustainable farming and minimal SO2 added. Fun fact of the day: the name, FRV100, sounds like ‘effervescent’ if you say it quickly in French.
Tasting Notes
I couldn’t get this very specific comparison out of my head: sparkling vodka cranberry with a touch of sweetness. There’s more going on than just that, but something about the cranberry notes really took me. The aromatics are fun for a sparkling wine, with rose petal and some chewiness dancing around. The low alcohol, splash of sugar, and bright flavors make this an excellent wine for the wine-skeptics in your life. There’s something here for everyone.
| The region: Beaujolais, France |
The style: Sparkling, Organic |
The grapes: Gamay |