January 2025
Portugal: A Clash of New and Old
This month we continue our crawl across Southern Europe and turn our focus to one of the most unique winemaking countries in the world: Portugal. With a winemaking history dating back to when the Phoenicians had outposts in the Atlantic, Portugal followed a familiar trajectory to other European countries up until the 17th century when it began a long relationship with the British. Britain ceased trade with France at the end of the century, leaving British agents hunting for a new, accessible, source of wine. Portugal was a natural option and the Brits found what they were looking for up the Douro river in Oporto. Here they encountered heavy, brooding reds that they could fortify with brandy to ward off spoilage during long sea voyages to the British Isles and her colonies. This relationship (and huge focus on fortified wine) set the stage for the next 300 or so years of Portuguese wine history, with very little quality wine being made until the last fifty or so years. Today, fine table wine is at an all time high in the country, buoyed by the country's position as an emerging tourist destination.
We’ll explore three of the four most recognizable regions in Portugal: Dão and Douro in the North, and Alentejo in the South. The fourth, Vinho Verde, making fresh easy-going white wine, is already well-represented in the shop and if you’ve not yet given those wines a try, they’re some of the most affordable high-quality whites currently available.
Carlos Lucas - Escadas da Beira ‘Encruzado’
Dão
The Grapes
100% Encruzado - Sustainably Farmed
Producer Profile
Carlos Lucas makes wines in both the Dão and Duoro from estate-grown fruit that is entirely indigenous Portuguese varietals. His focus is on making classic, often ageworthy, wines and this white, featuring the extremely rare (but very high quality) Encruzado grape, is no exception. We see this as a value-alternative to White Burgundy or other elegant examples of Chardonnay.
Tasting Notes
Candied tropical fruits (banana runt?) and golden apple on the nose, with lots of white flower petals and a touch of oak toast. Low acidity and a full body, very lush on the palate. Tropical fruit notes continue throughout and there’s a pronounced floral finish.
Pairing Suggestions
White bean soup with kale and heavy aromatics (chicken or turkey wouldn’t be bad additions).
Can it Age?
This well-structured white could age for a few years and continue developing nicely in the bottle.
Textura ‘Pretexto’
Dão
The Grapes
Jaen, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional
Producer Profile
A relatively new winery (2018), Textura is an example of the quickly growing interest from outsiders in Dão as a fine wine region. Owner Marcel Araujo moved his family here from Brazil, investing in both land and the winery (all wines are from estate grapes) and working hands-on with his wife and son making wine. Located up the slopes of the Serra da Estrela mountain range, Textura creates vibrantly fresh wines from local varietals. Pretexto lives up to this, and is a lovely example of a contemporary Portuguese red.
Tasting Notes
At first sniff bright red fruit takes a bit of a backseat to exciting herbaceousness (eucalyptus, oregano, rosemary). Darting strawberry and red cherry come forward on the palate and the herbaceous quality holds back until the finish. High acid, low tannin, a fun lively red.
Pairing Suggestions
Thai peanut noodles with a decent amount of heat.
Can it Age?
Could age for a couple of years, but recommended to drink sooner than later.
Casa Relvas - Merino ‘Old Vines’
Alentejo
The Grapes
Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Touriga Nacional
Producer Profile
Casa Relvas is a pioneering winery in the Alentejo region. They’re a founding member of the Alentejo Wine Sustainability Program and hold the highest rating of any member. Working vast tracts of the arid Alentejo region, their vineyards are notable for the large herds of sheep that graze the grass between vineyard rows (a cog in their overall sustainability efforts). The sheep-centric ‘Merino’ series of wines offer approachable introductions to classic Alentejo style.
Tasting Notes
Dark fruit (plum/blackberry) and a similar herbaceous quality to the Pretexto above nod towards similar grapes but wildly different style. Nice structured tannin and easy acidity. Spice and dried herbs linger around rich stewed fruit in the finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Ironically mutton chops would be quite nice. We’ll go simple though, a classic ribeye or New York strip with glazed mushrooms.
Can it Age?
While this wine is certainly made to drink right away, there’s enough structure that it could handle aging for up to 5 years.
Warre’s - Ottima 10-Year Tawny Port
Douro (Porto)
The Grapes
Blend of Port Grapes (Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, etc.)
Producer Profile
While the other producers this month represent varying levels of modern influence on the Portuguese wine scene, Warre’s is an extreme swing in the other direction. Founded in 1670, Warre’s was the first British Port House, kicking off centuries of close wine relationship between these two maritime powers. This 10-Year tawny is sourced from three of the Duoro’s premier Quintas (Cavadinha, Retiro, and Telhada), fermented with natural yeasts, and contains a blend of aged barrels that averages out to 10 years.
Tasting Notes
Rich and succulent dried fruits and nuts. Fresh-baked cherry pie with almond flakes and an exceptionally long finish, a hallmark of tawny ports.
Pairing Suggestions
Standalone as an after-dinner sipper or with charcuterie (nuts and aged cheese, specifically).
Can it Age?
It doesn’t need to, but it will remain quite good in bottle for a very long time if stored correctly. Store upright, the higher alcohol of port will degrade cork much faster than a normal wine.