July 2025
Crete: An Emerging Mediterranean Region
This month we embrace ancient island life with four wines from Greece’s largest island: Crete! Three of our wines this month come from the Diamantakis winery, an outfit emblematic of Crete’s very young ‘fine wine’ scene. To switch things up a little bit, this month’s writeup will be through the lens of Diamantakis via a short interview I was able to do with Chryssa Gribabi, Diamantakis’ Export Manager. With very little information out there on modern Cretan wine, this was also a way to get a glimpse into the current state of their industry.
Interview edited for clarity and a big thank you to Chryssa for her time. All photos in the article are from Diamantakis.
MD: Can you describe the development of modern winemaking in Crete?
CG: The last three decades have marked a real transformation in Cretan winemaking. While the island has one of the oldest wine traditions in the world, going back over 3,000 years, it’s only in the last generation that a shift toward quality-driven, modern viticulture has truly taken hold.
In the 1990s and early 2000s, a new wave of winemakers began investing in modern equipment, studying oenology and most importantly reclaiming and refining the island’s indigenous grape varieties like Vidiano, Liatiko, Mandilari, and Kotsifali. This movement focused not just on improving quality but on expressing the unique terroirs of Crete’s mountainous vineyards and diverse microclimates.
During this same period, Assyrtiko, originally from Santorini, was introduced to Crete and has adapted remarkably well to the island’s diverse terroirs. Although not native to Crete, it consistently produces high-quality wines that keep Assyrtiko’s fresh and mineral character, while also showing the special influence of the local climate and soil.
Today, Crete is one of the most exciting wine regions in Greece, blending deep-rooted tradition with modern technique.
MD: Where does Diamantakis come in?
CG: Diamantakis is a family-owned winery founded in 2007, located southwest of Heraklion, in the village of Kato Assites, at the foothills of Mountain Psiloritis at an altitude of around 450 meters.
We consider ourselves to be part of that quality-focused generation I mentioned above. From the beginning, our vision was to highlight Crete’s native varieties, like Vidiano, which we believe is among Greece’s most promising white grapes.
Our vineyards, planted on calcium-clay, argil-clay and limestone soils, are influenced by both mountain and sea, giving us fruit with freshness, minerality and character, qualities we aim to preserve through minimal intervention in the winery.
MD: Where is Crete headed in the coming decades?
CG: Crete’s wine industry is heading toward more terroir-focused and sustainable winemaking. The winemakers are hoping for in the coming years:
- Promoting native grapes like Vidiano, Liatiko, Mandilaria and Assyrtiko to the international stage.
- Establishing more Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) zones that showcase the diversity of local terroirs.
- Improving exports and brand recognition globally.
There’s a strong sense of community among producers now, who collaborate to strengthen Crete’s reputation as a serious wine destination. This is one of the purposes of the Heraklion Winemakers’ association “Wines of Crete”, of which Diamantakis Winery is a member.
MD: Why should people get excited about Crete’s wines?
CG: For us, the biggest selling point for Crete’s wines is the authenticity and diversity. Cretan wines are not trying to mimic global styles, they express something truly local.
Grapes like Vidiano offer complexity, freshness, and aging potential, while Liatiko stands out with its own unique red profile, light in color but aromatic and complex. These wines reflect the land, the history, and the food culture of Crete, which makes them compelling and different. Also, the combination of altitude, limestone soils, and Mediterranean climate gives natural freshness even in warmer vintages.
MD: What are your biggest struggles?
CG:
- Climate change: Hotter, drier summers and unpredictable weather conditions are becoming more common.
- Water scarcity in certain zones, which puts pressure on irrigation.
- Export visibility: While quality is improving, international markets still often associate Greek wine with only a few regions or styles.
MD: What are your main markets at the moment?
CG: In the domestic market, Cretan wine is highly regarded and widely available throughout Greece. Internationally, our main markets are:
- USA: An important and growing market, especially in cities with a strong wine culture.
- Germany, UK, and Belgium: Countries where consumers are showing more interest in Mediterranean and native varietals.
- Nordic countries (like Sweden and Norway): Appreciated for their openness to organic and terroir-driven wines.
We’re seeing more sommeliers and importers seeking out lesser-known regions with distinct identities—Crete fits that interest perfectly.
Diamantakis ‘Petali’ Assyrtiko
The Grapes
100% Assyrtiko - Organic, Natural
Tasting Notes
Bright, vibrant melon and lemon, slick minerality and salinity. Gentle florality on the nose, lemon zest.
Pairing Suggestions
A cheese board on the boat.
Can it Age?
Drink now
Diamantakis Vidiano
The Grapes
100% Vidiano - Organic, Natural
Tasting Notes
Juicy pear, white flower, bright lemon. On the palate nice punchy tropical fruit, pineapple, apricot and a really pleasant salty almond in the finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Gamopilafo, traditional Cretan risotto-like dish extremely rich in flavor.
Can it Age?
Great now, will develop nicely for up to 7 years.
Diamantakis ‘Petali’ Liatiko
The Grapes
100% Liatiko - Organic, Natural
Tasting Notes
Very floral, laced with graphite, white plum. Fresh young berries on the palate along with more of that florality. Very pretty red.
Pairing Suggestions
Rosemary and lemon stuffed chicken on the grill would be a delight.
Can it Age?
Drink now
Alexakis Kotsifali/Syrah
The Grapes
60% Kotsifali, 40% Syrah
Tasting Notes
Blackberry, dark raspberry, sweet herbaceousness and rich red florality. Touch of spice from barrel aging. Moderate tannin, moderate acid, very balanced wine.
Pairing Suggestions
Rack of dry-rub ribs with decent spice to them.
Can it Age?
As a 2018 vintage it’s still tasting very fresh so it would be interesting to push it out farther, maybe up to 5 more years.