March 2023
We’re all familiar with classic Cali wines - a bold Napa Cab, oaky Chardonnay, or rich and aromatic coastal Pinot. Since we already have a number of wines that fit those molds, we wanted to use this month to highlight some off-the-beaten-path California wines. While natural wines are an easy example of this, only one of the wines this month is fully ‘natural’ - the other three are folks that just believe the terroir of California has more to offer, and are investing heavily in exploring that idea. Lucky for us, they’re right!
His winery (and family) have been in Mendocino making wine for over 100 years. Greg is a classicist in his wine-making methods. Rarely, though, are those methods Californian and only occasionally does he use a classic California grape. Each of Greg’s four labels (Graziano, Saint Gregory, Monte Volpe, and Enotria) represents a different style of winemaking and different set of grapes. Monte Volpe and Enotria put out Moscatos, Barberas, and other lovely Italian-style wines; Saint Gregory focuses on Burgundian cuvees; and Graziano sticks to more classic California, but without an abundance of new oak. We’re featuring two wines from Greg this month: his Chenin Blanc in a heavier Loire style and his Pinot Meunier, a Champagne grape closely related to Pinot Noir that he does in a classic Burgundian style - balanced extraction left to age for 3 years in neutral French oak before release, leaving it bold but not heavy handed. Greg’s use of neutral oak and many years of aging before release is rather unique in California and he uses it to great effect in most of his red wines.
Our next producer is also primarily out of Mendocino with a European twist, this one much more focused on a singular Italian region than a broad interpretation of an area's wine. Idlewild has one very specific goal: Piedmontese-style wines. They use only classic Piedmont grapes and try to make them true to the classic wines of that region. Most of the grapes come from Mendocino, some from Sonoma. Tasting through their wines in their Healdsburg tasting room definitely takes you out of California momentarily. Bright dolcetto, powerful Nebbiolo, and deeply floral whites are all delicious and accurate reflections of the wines of Piedmont. Owner and winemaker Sam Bilbro’s line of Flora and Fauna blends strive to bring fresh and lively blends that are true to the wine you would find on a Northern Italian table some random Tuesday. Flora and Fauna Red does just that. Primarily Barbera, with Dolcetto and Freisa to round it out, this is a wine that will be great in any situation. And a low percentage of these grapes did come from Idlewild’s Sonoma vineyard, which brings us to our final wine, a not-so-classic Sonoma Cab.
Les Lunes, based out of Richmond, California, was one of the most interesting stops of our trip. Run by Diego Roig and Shaunt Oungoulian, Les Lunes makes clean, sustainable natural wines from a handful of vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino that they manage and farm. They also make blends under their ‘Populis’ label using grapes they purchase from organic vineyards in Mendocino county (from folks like Greg Graziano, who have long histories in the county and own more vineyards than they need for their own wines).
Their Cabernet Sauvignon, however, is from their own vineyards around Sonoma County. This is a natural take on a classic. Fully organic and regenerative farming, spontaneous wild yeast fermentation, no filtration, and minimal SO2 added only at bottling. Vinified to be fresher and more fruit-forward than the bold Napa and Sonoma Cabs that demand hearty food, the Les Lunes Cab is immediately intriguing and we hope you enjoy it, along with the other lovely wines from Idlewild and Graziano! On to the notes!
Graziano
Chenin Blanc 2020
Tasting Notes
Stone fruits and some lime (not lime-lime, more kefir lime) up front, good minerality, touch of baking spice from light oak aging, and honeysuckle on the nice lingering finish
Pairing Suggestions
Definitely spicy foods. Spicy foods that feature citrus would be even better - spicy curried shrimp with lime over some rice.
| The region: Mendocino County, California |
The style: White |
The grapes: Chenin Blanc |
Saint Gregory
Pinot Meunier 2018
Tasting Notes
Very ripe strawberry and cherry, nice earth and balsamic notes, more tannin than a pinot noir, nice acid, and just the right amount of vanilla from the long oak aging.
Pairing Suggestions
Pulled pork sandwich with braised veggies.
| The region: Mendocino County, California |
The style: Red |
The grapes: Pinot Meunier |
Idlewild
Flora & Fauna Red 2021
Decant or open an hour ahead of drinking
Tasting Notes
Fresh cherries, perfumy raspberries, leather, crushed roses, and a touch of licorice on the nose with similar notes on the palate but with some tobacco and more pronounced floral characteristics.
Pairing Suggestions
This is fresh enough to work well with a lot of food. Soft cheeses or any charcuterie in general would be great. Pork chops with fresh mint or heavier chicken dishes would also be tasty.
| The region: Mendocino County, California |
The style: Red |
The grapes: Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa |
Les Lunes
Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Decant or open an hour ahead of drinking
Tasting Notes
Rich dark fruits (plum, blackberry), rich earthy notes, strong tannin, and a nice lingering finish. More herbaceous than your usual cab, very versatile palate.
Pairing Suggestions
Grilled meats or a heavy, mushroom and dairy-based pasta.
| The region: Sonoma County, California |
The style: Red, Natural, Organic |
The grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon |