Wines of Chile
This month we explore the wines of Chile, a country that often takes a backseat to the much more prevalent Malbecs of its neighbor, Argentina. Despite being something of a little brother, Chile has a long history of beautiful wines, often from grapes found only here. Pais, from Spain, and Carmenere, from France, are ancient varieties almost forgotten in Europe, but nurtured and presented beautifully in Chile. Carmenere, often mistaken for Merlot or one of the Cabernets before genetic profiling showed it to be a unique, long-lost Bordeaux varietal, is now the national grape of Chile, producing beautiful varietal wines. Pais, long only used for mass-production rosé, has recently taken off as a varietal wine, with many natural winemakers making vibrant, easy-going reds out of the light-bodied grape.
Chile’s wine history was long one of mass-produced wines for mass consumption, but these four wines explore what we hope the future of Chilean wine is - be it fun, vibrant natural wines or rock-solid classics from unexpected grapes. Enjoy!
Macatho - ‘Chacha’
Itata Valley, Chile
The Grapes
70% Chasselas, 30% Chardonnay
Producer Profile
Macarena del Río and Thomas Parayre founded Macatho in 2016 after meeting while working a harvest together. Based in Chillán, they currently farm old-vine parcels of land organically in Maule, Bío-Bío and Itata. Chile’s dry conditions, abundant sunshine, and cooling conditions of the Pacific make working organically a somewhat simpler endeavor than in other parts of the world. In the cellar, all work is done manually and by gravity - no additives are used, save for a dash of sulfur at bottling.
Tasting Notes
Orange wine! And this one’s on the funkier side. Pronounced mango, lychee, melon, and other tropical fruits. Highly herbaceous with white pepper and something quite like movie theater popcorn (heavily buttered). Lower acidity for an orange wine, low tannin, and a deep, long finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Wide spread of charcuterie with aged cheeses (cheddar, goat) and flavorful cured meats. The vibrancy of some funky cheeses will play well off of this unique and wild skin-contact wine.
Gustavo Riffo - ‘Lomas de Llahuen’ Pipeño
Itata Valley, Chile
The Grapes
100% Pais
Producer Profile
‘Lomas de Llahuen’ is the name for wines made with fruit from vineyards which have been in Gustavo Riffo’s family for many years. Located in Portezuelo, the family estate is composed entirely of organically farmed old vines. The area is traditionally one of the centers for Pipeño in Itata, and is very dry. Gustavo does the winemaking, but this is a separate project from the bottlings under his own name.
Tasting Notes
Interesting twist of melon and red fruit in this light-bodied red. Secondary notes of mushroom and leather up the ante with this fun flavor bomb. A little acidity and a nice touch of tannin keep the structure tight.
Pairing Suggestions
Chill this wine! Then roast some of your favorite vegetables, grill some pepper-crusted chicken, and enjoy…
Miguel Torres - Carmenere
Peumo, Chile
The Grapes
100% Carmenere
Producer Profile
The Torres family had been making wine for about 100 years in Spain when they uprooted, bought vineyards, and started making wine in Chile in the 1970s. From revitalizing local grapes such as Pais to championing organic viticulture, the Torres family has been a force in Chile, pushing quality in a sea of mass-market wines.
Tasting Notes
This will be a good one for any Cab Franc lovers out there. Rich black cherry and plum is followed quickly by all of the pepper - green bell peppers and cracked black pepper. On the palate clove and vanilla come forward, showing some oak aging. Low tannin, high alcohol, and a full body. A pitch-perfect red showcasing the potential of this grape.
Pairing Suggestions
Classic lamb chops with garlic and oregano. Side of whatever your favorite potato preparation is.
Capo Nativo - Cabernet Sauvignon
Maipo Valley, Chile
The Grapes
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Producer Profile
Fully organic grapes sourced from the Emiliana vineyards in the Maipo Valley. Emiliana were some of the first biodynamic vineyards in the country a few decades ago and recently became one of the first certified B Corps in South American winemaking. Grapes are hand picked, fermented, and aged six months in oak before a final blending.
Tasting Notes
Classic cab. Dark fruits, blackcurrant, nice bite of pepper and spice. Bold body and nice, balanced tannins make this an excellent little food wine. Finish is long with notes of leather and more spice. A very clean expression of the grape, not overwhelmed by the oak, but just enough oak to round it out.
Pairing Suggestions
No need to reinvent the wheel here…an easy pairing with any red meat: steak and mushrooms, a juicy cheeseburger. Just do it!