Tuscany
We arrived in Tuscany from the north, cruising down the coast from Genoa. After four days immersed in the intensity and towering nature of the wines and winemaking philosophies of Barolo and the Langhe, Tuscany promised a more relaxed atmosphere. As we moved away from the snow-capped backdrop of the alps, the hills around us began turning green, olive groves and cypress trees dotting the landscape as we arrived at our first Tuscan winery, Morisfarms. While there isn’t a Morisfarms wine in this wine club (look out for an excellent rosé coming this summer though), the visit there encapsulated the charm and hospitality of Tuscany. We were welcomed into the dining room of a 1600s farmhouse where we tasted wines and enjoyed cinghiale (the wild boar that terrorize Tuscan farms and vineyards - pronounced chin-gal-ay). The woman who did the cooking is also one of the farmers and told us how she keeps a shotgun in her tractor at all times in case a boar shows up. The wild boar seemed to be a common nemesis to vineyards throughout Tuscany. Most of the food was from the farm, where they have citrus groves, vegetables, huge olive groves, and more, all in addition to the vineyards. This was also the case with the other Tuscan wineries we visited. Pleasant and pastoral.
After an evening in Siena, we spent the next day in Chianti Classico: first at Bibbiano and then Felsina, the producers of our two Chiantis in this month’s club. Bibbiano, in the southwest corner of the Classico DOCG, owns two vineyard blocks (37ha total), one on each side of the hill upon which the winery is perched. The north slope vineyard, ‘Montorrnello’, is planted with the traditional Sangiovese grape while the southern vineyard, ‘Capannino’, is planted with Sangiovese Grosso, the clone used in Brunello to make the richer, more structured wines found there (compared to the more vibrant and rustic reds from traditional Sangiovese). While they make elevated Gran Selezione’s from each of these vineyards, the Chianti Classico in the club is a more approachable blend of grapes from both vineyards. Bibbiano is a fairly small producer, working only those two vineyard blocks and making only a handful of wines.
Our next stop was on the larger side (of the family-run producers) for the region. Felsina, in the far southeast corner of Chianti Classico, is one of the premier estates in this part of Tuscany. They own vineyards around the winery but also in other pockets of Chianti Classico as well as outside of the Classico DOCG (where this month’s wine originates). We drove through a large portion of their vineyards adjacent to the winery, and one of the paths we drove down followed the ridge of a hill that creates the border between the Classico and Colli Senesi regions. They own vineyards on each side, growing the same Sangiovese in each vineyard to very different results. On the Classico side of the hill the soil was much rockier, with gravel noticeable throughout. Colli Senesi on the other hand had more clay and sand in the soil - far less rocky. This is the geological divide that marks the two areas throughout this south/southeast part of Classico. While the vineyards on the Classico side were some from the original Felsina estate, the Colli Senesi is a more recent purchase. The current winemaker/owner, Giovanni Felsina has been a big driving force behind both expansion and improvement. All vineyards are now organic and they’ve invested in a big cellar renovation/update. This Colli Senesi is a more opulent expression of Chianti than the Bibbiano as it sees some oak where Bibbiano is 100% aged in concrete, keeping it a little more angular.
After spending a wonderful evening at Felsina (they hosted us in their on-premise lodging) we drove south to Montalcino to begin our day in Brunello. Our first stop was Fanti, not represented in this wine club, but a wonderful producer in the valley, making opulent and full-bodied Brunellos. In the afternoon we made our way allll the way up the hill where Montalcino sits to visit Le Ragnaie. Perched above most of the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Le Ragnaie makes ethereal reds from Sangiovese grown at about the highest elevations possible in the region. More than anywhere we went in Tuscany, the winemaking at Le Ragnaie echoed that of Barolo. Entirely cement tanks, spontaneous fermentation, long maceration, and aging in huge old Slavonian oak barrels in addition to the high elevation (more acid and grip) leads to beautifully perfumed and tarry Brunellos. The Troncone in this month’s club is their entry-point wine: a light, bright, eccentric red (also 100% Sangiovese) that darts around the glass. Great with a little chill, this is a less serious wine than the two Chiantis. The Troncone wraps up the reds as well as our journey through the heart of Tuscan winemaking.
Next, we traveled as far south as south can go without leaving Tuscany. Tenuta Montauto sits in a quiet corner of Tuscany, just over the border from Lazio and not far from the Mediterranean, whose cool breezes wash up through the valley, moderating what would otherwise be a very hot growing season. We spent most of the day with owner/winemaker Riccardo, first tasting through the wines then touring the vineyards. The defining feature here is the fascinating terroir. Red clay soil is absolutely littered with quarts, ranging from marble sized to fist sized. Little other sediment was present outside of the quartz. Riccardo believes this brings the freshness and elegance that all of his wines possess (try the Pinot Nero we have in the shop if you haven’t already). Cinghiali reared their ugly head again, as Riccardo found a large rooted up area near a hole they’d made in a fence. He too is merciless with the wild boar. Which brings us to lunch - a wide spread of pasta, wild boar, and fresh vegetables followed by phenomenal creme brulee.
Enjoy this little slice of Tuscany - next month we'll be popping up to Piedmont!
Tenuta Montauto - Vermentino
The Grapes
100% Vermentino - Organic
Tasting Notes
Inviting citrus and peach aromas, juicy on the nose. Really wonderfully balanced acid that demands you come back for more and more sips. Herbaceous on the finish, very crisp, nice mineral tones.
Pairing Suggestions
Lemon-garlic shrimp tossed in noodles.
Can it Age?
Fresh and ready to drink now!
Le Ragnaie - ‘Troncone’
The Grapes
100% Sangiovese - Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Bright red fruit, fresh wild strawberries. Light bodied for how much texture the tannin brings, lots of acid to balance. Perfumed aromatics of rose petal and lavender. Juicy finish.
Pairing Suggestions
With the intensity of this wine, I see spicy Asian cuisine as a perfect fit.
Can it Age?
It doesn’t need to, but it would be interesting to see how it developed after a few years *shrug*
Felsina - Chianti Colli Senesi
The Grapes
100% Sangiovese - Practicing Organic
Tasting Notes
Rich red fruit, ripe cherry, plum. Baking spices from the oak aging, balsamic, dried herbs. Good balance of acid and tannin.
Pairing Suggestions
Wild boar! If you can’t find that, some nice bbq would do it well.
Can it Age?
Yes, up to 5 years.
Bibbiano - Chianti Classico
The Grapes
100% Sangiovese - Practicing Organic
Tasting Notes
Orange peel on the nose right away. Classic fruit profile, red cherry, bright red fruit. Wonderfully aromatic on the palate - rosemary, thyme. Some cranberry as well. A full but fresh expression of Sangiovese.
Pairing Suggestions
Herb-roasted chicken with taters on the side.
Can it Age?
Yes, up to 5 years.
