A Romp through Rioja Alavesa
Located in Northern Spain just south of Basque Country, Rioja is an arid plain surrounded by jagged cliffs. A number of rivers snake through and meet with the main waterway, the Ebro. On its way from the mountains north of Rioja east towards the Mediterranean, the Ebro divides the region into its three sub-regions: Rioja Alta south of the river; Rioja Oriental in the east; and Rioja Alavesa, in the rolling hills northwest of the Ebro, leading up to the Cantabrian Mountains. Rioja Alavesa is where we’ll focus this month, with a multitude of different styles currently being produced here at a very high quality level.
Alavesa has a long history of vine-growing due to its prime conditions for quality grapes - an excellent growing season, hillsides with favorable aspects, and incredibly poor soil (which is great for wine!). The big revelation for Rioja as a whole was in the late 1800s when phylloxera wiped out most of the French vineyardland and folks started looking into Spain and Portugal to replace the reds they’d regularly received from the likes of Bordeaux. This brought French winemakers (and their techniques) here in droves, replacing the historically bright and fresh reds of the region with more structured and serious wines, often aged in new American Oak, giving it distinctive barrel-influence. These wines were a hit on the international stage and have continued to be ever since. We love the wines of Lopez de Heredia, Muga and La Rioja Alta that showcase these now-traditional methods. This month we’ll cast a slightly wider net and explore traditional expressions along with winemakers bringing back a more historical approach to Tempranillo, Rioja’s main varietal.
The two reds from Bhilar and Luberri fit this historic approach. Bhilar works in a very minimal fashion and this wine showcases the wild complexity Tempranillo can have on its own two feet, without extended barrel and bottle aging. The Luberri harkens way back to when producers used to ferment ‘carbonically’ - a fermentation method in which whole grape clusters are put into a fermentation vessel and the grapes begin intercellular fermentation before being crushed (this is a classic method in Beaujolais today). This method of fermentation brings out bright and punchy red fruit, a stark contrast to the third red we have, Lopez de Haro’s Reserva 2019. This red is classic classic classic. Extended barrel aging in new American Oak, extended bottle aging before release. Rich, brooding flavor that will wrap its arms around you on a chilly Wisconsin evening.
Our white this month, Bodegas Ostatu’s ‘Rioja Blanco’, is typical of the new wave of white winemaking in Alavesa. What was traditionally an oaked, oxidative style (with wines being very deeply colored) has recently shifted to a more approachable and easy-going style that retains bright fruit flavor. White Rioja wines are significantly fewer than reds, so we’re always excited when we run into one that’s as fun as this.
Bodegas Ostatu ‘Rioja Blanco’ 2023
The Grapes
85% Viura, 15% Malvasia - Certified Organic, Native Yeast Fermentation
Tasting Notes
Lush citrus with apple blossom and geranium floral notes on the nose. Crisp, driving acidity and minerality lift the wine and carry the florality through a nice, refreshing finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Baked cod lathered in butter with a squeeze of lemon.
Can it Age?
Not recommended, drink now.
Bhilar ‘Rioja Tinto’
The Grapes
85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 5% Viura - Certified Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Lots going on with this one: black cherry, strawberry, mint, sweet herbs, leather, just a touch of old oak. Hints of vanilla and cured meat on the palate with those berries bursting forward again. Medium tannin and acid, very well balanced.
Pairing Suggestions
This would be a perfect wine for wild game - grouse, pheasant, and the like.
Can it Age?
Up to 2 years.
Luberri ‘Seis’
The Grapes
100% Tempranillo - Sustainable (Ecologic) Farming
Tasting Notes
A big pop of fresh strawberries and cherries and alluring dried herb on the nose. Delightfully balanced body with the cherries dominating the palate, some crushed rose petals join the dried herbs in the finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Rosemary garlic pork chops.
Can it Age?
Drink in the next year.
Lopez de Haro ‘Rioja Reserva’ 2019
The Grapes
Tempranillo, Graciano - Sustainable Farming
Tasting Notes
Deep and brooding vanilla and dill up front before blackberries and plum take over. The oak notes are in balance with moderate tannin and acid, the wine is drinking really well right now.
Pairing Suggestions
Beef and tomato stew. Open this bottle up when you start the stew to let it breathe, then enjoy once dinner’s ready!
Can it Age?
Yes, up to 10 years.
