October 2023
Toscana!
This month we delve deep into one of Italy’s most-famed wine regions and the grape (sangiovese) that originally piqued my curiosity in wine. Winemaking in Tuscany dates back to at least the 8th century BC with the emergence of Etruscan civilization. The Etruscans actively traded their wine in the Tyrhennian sea and Western Mediterranean up until being fully conquered by the Romans in the middle of the 3rd century BC. Viticulture continued without disturbance up until the fall of the Roman empire and fracturing of trade within Europe. As in many parts of Europe, winemaking fell to the church through the early medieval period and it wasn’t until the rise of Pisa as a major trading force in the 12th century that wine became a major commodity again.
This continued through the renaissance and it was in this early renaissance period that initial references to Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano started popping up. San Gimignano became just as known for its vernaccia as saffron, of which it was the preeminent producer in Europe. Vernaccia was referenced in Dante and remained a highlight of Tuscan wine up until becoming the first Italian DOC in 1966. However since that elevation, vernaccia has firmly taken a backseat to the omnipresent star of Tuscany, Sangiovese.
While Vernaccia di San Gimignano was Italy’s first DOC, Chianti was very likely Europe’s first legislated wine region when, in 1716, Grand Duke Cosimo III de Medici designated four communes between Florence and Siena as a discrete production zone. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that Sangiovese was fully cemented as the primary grape to use in red wines from the area, a distinction that was codified when Chianti gained its DOC status in 1967. Sangiovese is also the prime grape in Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (not to be confused with Montepulciano, the grape from Abruzzo). This month we’ll be featuring two classics (Chianti Classico Gran Selezione and Rosso di Montepulciano) and one newcomer (Tanganelli’s ‘Rude’), all from Sangiovese.
The other well-known wines from Tuscany not represented in this month's selection are Super Tuscans (powerful Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot based blends) and Vin Santo (excellent dessert wine). Each of these wines' price point is rather high, making them difficult to squeeze in. That said, we have brought in a rich and decadent Super Tuscan and will be bringing in a Vin Santo soon. So if you’re interested in continuing to explore Tuscany, we’ve got you covered!
Fontaleoni
Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2022
Producer Profile
Located in the historic San Gimignano, Fontaleoni is a relatively new producer, founded in 1957 and restructured in 1990 to its current form as a top-tier vernaccia producer. All fruit is hand-harvested. Fermentation and aging is in stainless steel with minimal intervention creating a classic representation of the DOCG.
Tasting Notes
Vibrant apple and pear with a crisp, clean acidity. Nice touch of white pepper, delicate florality, and lemon zest as secondary notes. Classic hint of bitter almond in the finish which is very common for vernaccia.
Pairing Suggestions
An excellent wine to start the evening with, pairing well with cheeses and crackers. Very light fish or chicken dishes would work as a main, but nothing too strong as this wine is easily overpowered.
| The region: Tuscany, Italy |
The style: White, Organic |
The grapes: Vernaccia |
Podere Il Palazzino
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ‘Argenina’ 2018
Producer Profile
Located just northeast of Siena in southern Chianti, the Palazzino estate traces its roots back to the mid-18th century with the current family having owned it without disruption since the mid-19th century. As a smaller producer, everything is done by hand and no pesticides or fertilizers are used in the vineyards. This wine comes from a small vineyard plot in the Argenina hamlet.
Tasting Notes
A wonderful marriage of earthy textures and luscious red fruit. Lush dark cherry, cinnamon, rose petals, and vanilla explode out of the balanced structure of acidity and smooth tannins. Highly aromatic and intense in flavor, this is an archetypical Gran Selezione level Chianti.
Pairing Suggestions
An opportunity to indulge. Sharp, hard cheeses, braised meats, rich red-sauce pasta with parmesan. This is a very versatile food wine (as Italian reds tend to be).
| The region: Tuscany, Italy |
The style: Red, Sustainable |
The grapes: Sangiovese |
Poliziano
Rosso di Montepulciano 2021
Producer Profile
Founded in 1961 but making inexpensive Chianti DOC level wines, Poliziano was kickstarted in 1980 by Federico Carletti, who took the winery over from his father. Federico bought more vineyard land and cleaned up the growing techniques. He also modernized the winemaking process and invested in new oak to add more body to wines that sorely needed it. This rosso is Poliziano’s ‘table’ wine, serving as an excellent entry-point into sangiovese from montepulciano.
Tasting Notes
Rich black cherry, leather, cacao, and vanilla up front give way to bruised red flowers and aromatic raspberry notes. Tannins and acid are much less prominent than the chianti classico, making this a little more easy going.
Pairing Suggestions
Beef bolognese would be a delight with this wine. Similar to the Chianti Classico, you could easily go with hard cheeses as well.
| The region: Tuscany, Italy |
The style: Red, Sustainable |
The grapes: Sangiovese, Merlot |
Tanganelli
Rude 2019
Producer Profile
Tanganelli is the work of Marco Tanganelli, an agriculturalist-turned-vigneron who works a scant 5 hectares of vineyards high up in the Apennine foothills. These are by far the highest elevation vineyards of this batch of wines and are also very very old, with the University of Siena estimating Tanganelli’s plantings are likely the oldest in Tuscany untouched by pesticides and herbicides. The low-yields and high elevation shine through in this unique sangiovese.
Tasting Notes
Bright, sour cherry layered with pepper and leather. Raspberry and eucalyptus aromas with a touch of smokiness in the middle. High acid but moderate tannin for sangiovese. Chilling this will bring some of those fruit characteristics forward through the secondary aromas.
Pairing Suggestions
Some nice spicy thai food like a green curry with chicken. If you go Italian with this pairing, keep it light. Red-sauce pasta with fresh basil.
| The region: Tuscany, Italy |
The style: Red, Organic, Biodynamic |
The grapes: Sangiovese |