Austria: The Beautiful wines of Burgenland
Austria is a small country with a surprising variety of both wine regions and styles. The majority of wine comes out of the north, from vineyards that sprawl out from the Danube and up towards the Slovak and Czech borders. Gruner Veltliner and Riesling dominate, making both fresh and approachable wines as well as concentrated, serious offerings that can age in bottle for many years. If you’ve picked up a bottle of Austrian white in the shop, it’s almost certainly been one of these two styles of wines. Other regions include Stiermark to the south, reaching down to Slovenia, and Wein, surrounding Vienna. But the area we focus on this month is the vast tract that sprawls south of Vienna down towards Hungary - Burgenland (Land of Castles). More specifically the northern part of Burgenland that wraps around Neusiedlersee, a large, shallow lake. Primarily known for world class sweet wines, we’ll be exploring the dry wines made to the east of the lake, grown on vineyards working their way up sloping hills that lead to Hungary.
The three small producers this month, Hareter, Weinhof Haider and Biokult are all working in a somewhat similar method, making clean and classic feeling natural wines out of a huge range of grapes. This stretch of land from Lake Neusiedlersee over to Hungary is absolutely peppered with forward-thinking wineries that churn out really pretty wines. Meinklang, producer of our best-selling orange wine (with the bull on the label) is also located in this area. As with last month, we’re turning over the finer details to Neil and Jess of importer Triglav Wines as Hareter and Haider are two of their newest additions and they’ve spent time there very recently. Enjoy!
A Warm Welcome in Apetlon
Our first stop was the small village of Apetlon, where we were greeted by the Haider family. As soon as we pulled in, Eva Haider waved us down excitedly. A stork—their favorite animal and the one you’ll see printed on their corks—had just returned from its winter migration. In this part of Austria, the arrival of the storks signals the start of spring. Inside, we met Eva’s husband, Berthold, and their twin sons. True to their values as a family business, Eva asked if one of the boys could serve us and walk us through the tasting. Of course, we agreed—it was a perfect introduction to their philosophy. The Haiders’ commitment to biodynamics extends beyond wine. They run a diversified farm with fruits, vegetables, livestock, and dairy, all cultivated ecologically. Some of their vineyards even lie within the Neusiedler See National Park, a beautiful area shaped by a large, shallow saltwater lake. The lake helps cool the air at night, creating perfect conditions for grape growing. (If you’ve never looked up Neusiedler See, I recommend it—it’s a hidden gem worth knowing about.)
Two of their wines especially stood out:
“Delirious” (100% Yellow Muscat) – One of our favorite wines of the entire trip.Fresh, lively, and aromatic with fruit and honeysuckle notes that trick the mind into thinking it’s sweet—though it has less than 1 gram of sugar per bottle. Add the low alcohol, which Berthold says is intentional to keep the wine refreshing, and you have something truly special.
“Attila – King of the Huns” – A red blend of Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Franc, and Zweigelt, uniquely crafted from three different vintages. Aged in large oak barrels, it’s blended each year until the family feels it’s just right. Named partly as a nod to nearby Hungary and partly in honor of Attila, a longtime farmhand who’s been with the family for over 20 years, the wine is as heartfelt as it is delicious.
Meeting Thomas and Claudia Hareter
From Apetlon, we drove 25 minutes along the lake to Weiden am See, home to Thomas and Claudia Hareter. Like the Haiders, they farm biodynamically and are gaining recognition both in Austria and abroad. Thomas explained that his philosophy comes from childhood—his family always valued natural, locally sourced food over supermarket products. To him, making wine the same way was simply common sense. Both he and Claudia want their teenage son to grow up with real, nourishing food—not fast food. As Claudia said, “We want him to know what good, natural food tastes like.” That kind of conviction is easy to respect.
Their lineup impressed us, but the standout was:
“Hippo” Pinot Blanc (2024) – Young and fresh, yet with a touch of oak aging that lends weight and depth. Claudia takes particular pride in this wine, noting that it’s their closest approach to a Burgundy style. The balance of freshness and fullness makes it both intriguing and elegant.
Hareter ‘Hippo’
The Grapes
100% Pinot Blanc - Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Bright stone fruit and crisp lemon acidity. Lightly herbaceous with nice heft from the light oak aging. Very refreshing long finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Great with pungent cheeses like goat cheese. Perhaps a fall salad with apple slices and goat cheese crumbled on top.
Can it Age?
Drink now
Weinhof Haider ‘Delirious’
The Grapes
100% Yellow Muscat - Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Wildly aromatic with geranium and crushed lilac jumping all over the place. Fruit comes forward later with citrus and melon notes. Long aromatic finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Sweet and spicy chicken dishes would go really well with the punch of flavor this wine delivers.
Can it Age?
Drink now
Weinhof Haider ‘Attila’
The Grapes
Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Cabernet Franc - Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Recommend Decanting or Aging
Tons going on with this one. Plum and cherry fruit up front with layers and layers of oak, vanilla, clove wrapped around. The oak is balanced by nice acidity. Earthy and brambly fruit on the finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Rare beef tenderloin with roasted veggies (mushrooms… asparagus)
Can it Age?
Absolutely, this can age for a few years at least. If you're ready to drink it now, we strongly recommend decanting this wine or opening it well before you plan to serve it. Your patience will be rewarded!
Biokult ‘Zweigelt, Pinot Noir’
The Grapes
Zweigelt, Pinot Noir - Organic, Biodynamic
Tasting Notes
Incredibly balanced fruit. Blackberry, raspberry, black cherry. Nice floral aromatics of lavender and rose. Wonderfully smooth finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Pork chops garnished with fresh herbs.
Can it Age?
Drink now
