September 2024
‘Strayah Mate
‘The wines manage to be at once distinctively Australian yet fit easily into the world scene’
-The Oxford Companion to Wine 5th Edition
With many of our wine club themes focusing on either classic regions or more esoteric regions, I found this quote incredibly accurate as it relates to the four wines we’ve chosen this month. Recognizable grapes made in fairly classic methods producing unique and fascinating wines.
Australia's wine industry began in 1791 when two bunches of cuttings were planted in the Governor’s Garden in Sydney. For most of the 19th century it remained a bit of a niche market, with production primarily catering to domestic needs and a bit of wine going to the motherland in England. It wasn’t until after WW2 that the industry kicked into high gear and really started to get its act together.
During the 1950s and 60s, Aussie winemakers began experimenting with new techniques and varietals. The post-war economic boom meant more disposable income and a growing interest in quality wine (as well as a growing interest in the US and China for Australian vino) and vineyard-land greatly increased in this time. Shiraz was the trend in most places, but Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Grenache, and others all gained footholds in regions of their own - regions that would prove more than capable of creating beautiful terroir-driven wines from these grapes.
The 1970s and 80s were where things really started turning a corner. Australian wines began to regularly impress on the world stage. Aussie winemakers embraced innovation, focusing on high-quality production and a willingness to explore what different varietals could do in unique regions that put them on the global map. Brands like Penfolds were right up there with Chateau Montelena, Chateau Latour, and others as the pinnacle of fine wine.
By the 1990s, Australian wine had become entrenched as a player internationally. Regions like Barossa Valley and Coonawarra gained acclaim for delicious twists on classic varietals. Dry white wines from across the country also caught attention as trends turned away from red wine. This continued into the 21st century, with a huge diversification of styles emerging from across the continent.
This month we cast a wide net: from the Margaret River in Western Australia to Coonawarra, Clare Valley, and Barossa Valley across the Southeast. Winemakers working diverse river valleys with diverse grapes, all just a shade different than their classic European counterparts.
Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Riesling
Clare Valley
The Grapes
100% Riesling
Producer Profile
Founded in 1997, Kilikanoon has become a standard-bearer of Clare Valley Shiraz and Riesling. They’re also a leader in minimal intervention winemaking, producing notably terroir-driven wines, especially noticeable in this single vineyard Riesling.
Tasting Notes
A fresh pop of green apple gives way to clean, defined lime notes. Steely acid provides plenty of structure and stretches out the finish nicely.
Pairing Suggestions
A perfect pair for a variety of southeast asian dishes. Anything Thai curry would be our go-to.
Leeuwin Estate ‘Siblings’ Sauvignon Blanc
Margaret River
The Grapes
100% Sauvignon Blanc
Producer Profile
Leeuwin Estate is one of the iconic producers of Western Australia, forming in 1974 and guiding the region on its journey to legitimacy via its ‘Art’ series of higher end Cabs and Chardonnays.
Tasting Notes
Very light, lots of clarity (wine shop), clean nose of lemon, lime, guava, and just a hint of that sauv blanc grassiness. On the palate lemon, lime, more guava, and a little grapefruit. Nice juicy finish.
Pairing Suggestions
A great wine on its own, this also will go really well with salads, soft cheeses, and other easy-going appetizers in that vein. Summer salad with goat cheese crumble and a lemon vinaigrette would be perfect.
Tim Smith ‘Bugalugs’ Grenache
Barossa Valley
The Grapes
100% Grenache
Producer Profile
The Barossa Valley is home to a large concentration of Shiraz plantings, but Tim Smith casts a bit of a wider net, working with a range of Rhonish varietals, including a focus on Grenache, one of our favorite varietals here at Clarity. This wine comes from 50 year old, low-yield vines producing concentrated and juicy wine.
Tasting Notes
Fresh, vibrant red fruit (strawberry, raspberry, cherry) open up with a nice kick of acid. Aromatically driven in the middle with lots of herbaceousness, dried herbs, savory. Lingering finish with pleasant acid keeps you coming back for more.
Pairing Suggestions
A nice, somewhat lean roast heavy on complimentary herbs (bay leaf, oregano, even mint) and seasoned with garlic and pepper.
Jim Barry ‘Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Coonawarra
The Grapes
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Producer Profile
Founded in 1959 in the Clare Valley (where the majority of operations still happen) Jim Barry winery is one of the older continuously functioning wineries in Southeast Australia. This wine is a unique one from some very small vineyard holdings they have in Coonawarra on the site of old cricket grounds (thus the label). It's a very unique and pure expression of Cabernet that may surprise.
Tasting Notes
Lots of green bell pepper and cracked black pepper up front (this is from pyrazines, which I’m fairly sensitive to, it may be more fruit-forward to others). It opens up to rich, brambly blackberry and currant. The peppery notes are more subdued on the palate and give way to earthy aromas with those nice dark fruits.
Pairing Suggestions
This would be excellent with well-seasoned lamb chops. It lacks the heft of some fuller-bodied Cabs and will play better with lighter, possibly gamier meats.